[City nearby] Kesennuma

気仙沼

Kesennuma, located at the northernmost tip of Miyagi Prefecture, is a town that holds a special place in my heart. I had the privilege of living there for about three years, forming deep connections with its people, culture, and stunning landscape. Home to a warm community and breathtaking ocean views, Kesennuma is truly a gem. Just an hour away from Ichinoseki by the JR Ofunato Line, it shares a close bond with Ichinoseki as sister cities. And along this scenic Ofunato Line runs the Pokémon With YOU Train, adding an extra touch of magic to the journey.

Hoya Boya - Kesennuma's mascot <3

My connection to Kesennuma was through the JET Program. I worked as an Assistant Language Teacher for three years, teaching at four elementary schools. When I first Googled my placement, I realized that it was a town devastated by the tsunami in 2011. When I arrived in 2015, on a surface level, if you never knew the tsunami had swept through, you may not even notice. Kesennuma continues to change and evolve with people coming to help from all over Japan and even the world, some end up staying and calling Kesennuma home. I am and will always be grateful to have experienced this town.

So, what can you do here?

1) Check out the sea!

Karakuwa Peninsula: The most northern part of Miyagi Prefecture is home to some unique, rocky coastline. One of Karakuwa's most iconic features is Oreishi. The Michinoku Coastal Trail and 'Orure' hiking courses have recently been established here which I have mentioned more on in the hiking section.

Cape Iwaisaki: The 'Dragon Tree' of Iwasaki is a preserved, lone pine tree which withstood the tsunami. Nearby is Shiofuki-iwa, which spouts water through a hole in the rocks whenever a big wave rolls in.

Isuzu Shrine/Ukimido: This spot is a personal favorite of mine. On top of the hill, there is a shrine; from there, you can walk down toward the water. Part of the shrine is said to be a 'power spot,' a place that endows visitors with refreshing or healing energy. The Ukimido red pedestrian path is stunning against the backdrop of the ocean. There is also a kid's playground nearby so this spot is great for families. It's also within walking distance of the ferry port and restaurants/cafes.

Oreishi Iwaisaki 'Dragon Tree' View from Ukimido

And the beaches~

Kodanohama Beach: Situated on Oshima Island, which is now easily accessible from the mainland, this stunning location has undergone great changes in recent years. Kodanohama is renowned for its clear, tranquil waters and was recognized as the second most beautiful beach in Japan.

In 2023, the beach was awarded a Blue Flag certification by the Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE).

I high recommend visiting this beach, particularly for families with young children. It's also ideal for standup paddle boarding, with a vibrant community that regularly visits.

Oya Kaigan: A coastline approximately 2 km long with shallow waters and sandy beaches. Although it lost most of its sand in the 2011 tsunami, it was revived as a swimming beach for the first time 2021. The nearby roadside station which is also worth a visit, is conveniently located just off the Sanriku Expressway and is also a station on the JR Kesennuma Line BRT.

And of course the Kesennuma Port

Commercial fishing ships line the port to showcase Japan's fishing industry.

These ships and crews contribute to Japan's renowned seafood culture. The port has is home to beloved eating establishments which allow you to indulge in amazing seafood and drinks. I enjoy hopping between eating establishments along the port, from Murasaki Ichiba to Mishiyone Yokocho. The port is decorated in golden fairy-lights that make the nights all the more magical.

2) Go hiking!

The Michinoku Coastal Trail: Japan's longest trail stretches about 1,000 km along the Pacific coast. Completing the entire route takes several months, but you can opt to walk specific sections. The Karakuwa Peninsula in Kesennuma is included in this trail, and the segment passing through will take you through

Mt Anba: Enjoy a mountain hike in the heart of the city. Hiking from the bottom of the mountain takes about half an hour to an hour to reach the peak, or alternatively, go halfway by car and walk the rest - which not too physically demanding. The mountain has beautifully paved paths and accents along the course. Depending on the season, you can see camellia flowers, cherry blossoms and azaleas. Spectacular views of Kesennuma's port, mountains and islands await at the summit. The view transforms from morning to night. On some mornings if you get up Mt. Anba early enough, you can watch the sunrise combine with the fog over the ocean and if you are really lucky, you may witness a phenomenon known as 'kearashi', or frost smoke. This phenomena happens most commonly in the winter.

Mt. Tokusenjo is a true spectacle during mid-late May with 500,000 azalea flowers in bloom. Again this is an easy hike during a beautiful time of the year. There's also a tree house which makes for cute pictures!

3) Seafood, sake...beer, oh and Ken Watanabe!

Kesennuma is among Japan's largest fishing ports, offering some of the freshest seafood in the country at an affordable price. Key seafood products from Kesennuma include bonito, saury, mackerel, scallops, and oysters. For those interested in trying something different, there are unique delicacies like sea squirt, which I've come to appreciate. Kesennuma also boasts excellent sake breweries, Otokoyama and Mizutoriki. Many local bars and restaurants serve these brands, so be sure to try them! I also recommend the craft beer from Black Tide Brewery. At the brewery, they serve beers on tap, or you can buy some to take with you in the form of a can. The cans always have the coolest designs!

You might be wondering why I brought up the renowned actor Ken Watanabe, but he actually owns a café in Kesennuma named K-Port. He occasionally makes appearances :)

4) Disaster Education

Kesennuma was devastated by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and the subsequent tsunami. The Kesennuma City Memorial Museum (former Koyo High School) is an important site for disaster education. The school, located in a coastal area of the city, was severely impacted by the disaster, with much of the surrounding region being submerged. In the aftermath, the former Koyo High School was transformed into a disaster education facility to raise awareness about the magnitude of the tragedy and the ongoing importance of disaster preparedness. The museum, featuring exhibits that tell the stories of the disaster, the lives lost, and the community's recovery efforts. It also offers hands-on disaster simulations, helping visitors understand the scale of natural disasters while teaching critical survival skills.

On a final note, if you find yourself in town during the festival season, typically the first weekend of August, check out the port festival known as Minato Matsuri. I must mention this because it was my first experience in Kesennuma. On the first day (Saturday), groups perform the 'Hamaranya' dance for hours. The sense of community as people dance on a warm summer evening, the aroma of street food in the air, and the sounds of cheer and laughter create an unforgettable atmosphere. On the second day (Sunday), visit the port to enjoy a fireworks display accompanied by the roar of the largest number of 'uchibayashi' taiko in all of Japan.